Categories
Uncategorized

Done, for Now

December 11, 2019

On the first flight back to Tucson. Unreasonably early flight (up at 4:40), had to wait a half hour or so before anybody showed up at the ticket counter. My big-dog status with United made me 1st in line, completed the check -in, emigration, security all in Spanish, which left me with a certain sense of accomplishment. Breakfast in Spanish (torta de tasajo – sandwich with dried beef, nicely toasted and about $3).

Waited about an hour and a half for our little plane. Before getting on board, I was asked the usual security questions: “Is this your stuff, did you pack it yourself, did you accept anything from strangers?”, except more out of habit, when they started to ask, I replied “bueno“, and the agent immediately changed to Spanish, apologized, and did the questions in Spanish. “¡Orgullo!.. Pride!

Can I speak Spanish fluently now? No. In my last class, I asked my instructor for an honest assessment; what she thought I knew, and what steps should I follow to improve my utility in the language. She had to ponder a bit, she said I wasn’t the typical student: my interests and questions tended to be “transactional” – (for example) “tell me in detail about how to give directions to tourists”. “Help me with these food and restaurant terms”. What was ancillary info for their “regular” students was typical for me, and the reverse: progression through vocabulary and grammar was necessary, but more incidental to my studies. I’m guessing I wasn’t their easiest student. The second teacher outlined areas of study (and more importantly, their sequence) so I can continue in Tucson and beyond. My progress is in my own hands now.

On top of helping me improve my language skills, my two maestras were instrumental in helping me understand the city  and some of its culture and charms. I like Oaxaca, it’s vibrant, seems to be more environmentally conscious than other Mexican cities I’ve been to. It’s culturally diverse, is the culinary capital of the country, has nice weather most of the year. The central part of Oaxaca is compact and safe. Oh, and cheap!

I hope to return with Kathy some time, maybe on a regular basis. It’s not a long trip.

Would I take 4 hours a day of Spanish again? Doubtful. But Kathy might enjoy a less intensive class while I scope out new adventures for us. 

Categories
Uncategorized

Angeles.

I’d like to be writing this in Spanish – and I probably could with a little bit of quality Google Translate time, and that’d be fitting given the circumstances. But I’d also like to “strike while the iron is hot”, while I still appreciate what’s gone on the last couple of hours.

So, something’s gone wrong with my shoulder. The musculature might be inflamed from my uncomfortable bed or some sleeping quirk that worsened the “thickness tear” in my shoulder. Doesn’t really matter. The point is the pain has left me largely unable to use my right arm. I’ve been unable to concentrate on my studies, on my homework, etc. for several days now. Putting on a shirt in the morning has been torture the last couple days. My lovely diligent, organized, caring wife has been scrambling to find me timely medical for my return to Arizona the day after tomorrow while also juggling my father-in-law’s needs. But meanwhile, I’m in intractable pain.

My morning teacher adapted the class for my infirmity. She actually started writing down my notes for me because I’d wince each time I’d lift my arm to use the pen. Points for that. Instead of continuing in the coffee shop, we headed out and checked out some local architecture. Nice distraction. The class (my penultimate one) ended with best wishes and my thanks. Spent the interval between the classes feeling sorry for myself, having the ritual supermarket sandwich I’ve come to rely on, and a short siesta (without lying down) in between the two classes.

The second class started much like the first: “what did you do over the weekend”, “how are you” etc. The response, however, was completely different. We didn’t head to our usual afternoon cafe. I had asked her the word for a “sling”, and whether a pharmacy should carry it. She translated the word (I’ve already forgotten) but instead of leaving it like that, she brought me to a shop that sells them, then on to a pharmacy. Along the way, she asked what I was taking for it, and as an aside mentioned she’d worked for 3 years in a pharmacy, and what I was taking wasn’t going to do it! Which… I knew.

But wait, there’s more: earlier in the day, Lovely Wife had inquired as to whether I could buy a medication called “Tramadol” for her dad. I confirmed with a pharmacy that I in fact could not, without a prescription. However, as it turns out, pharmacies often have a doctor either on staff or nearby. The consultation is free. She got the referral slip from the pharmacy, we walked to the doctor’s office literally next door. He asked some pertinent questions, I answered most myself, the Teacher helped with some. I was proud of my understanding as well as grateful for her help.

The irony? The medication for which I got a prescription… TRAMADOL. Coupled with a sling (so I not longer have to hold my arm across my chest, which “gets old” quickly), I’m no longer writhing in pain. It still hurts, I’m still broken, but I can function. “Yezz” (my teacher) is an angel, and my wife a saint.

Categories
Uncategorized

Winding Down

On the one hand, it seems like I’ve been here forever. I’ve stopped locking my door. I’ve started shopping at the supermarket. I know my way around (more or less). I know which sound is the gas company truck, and which is the guy with the bicycle-powered knife sharpening service. Students come and go (and this place offers an AirBNB too so there are frequent new faces at the breakfast table). My progress hasn’t been everything I expected (which is nobody’s fault in particular) – my expectations were simply in excess of reality.

On the other hand, it seems like I just started classes yesterday. The initial days were rough. They’re still rough, to be honest, the difference is the attitude I take with them – stress or equanimity? I’m trying to choose the latter.

I have 6 more days of classes. It’s Monday December 2, 2019 as I write, I leave a week from Wednesday. Tonight, I’ll take inventory of my interests as well as perceived skills and weaknesses. My teachers will do the same. And we’ll concentrate on what I can learn here, that will allow me to continue to improve. “Vamos a ver” – we’ll see.

Categories
Uncategorized

Time Flies…

Except when you’re going some distance, in a small Mexican taxi.

The last time I wrote I was on the upswing after a “failed relationship”. It’s been on the level for a week now; I have some mixed feelings about one of my teachers, but being more than half way through, I’m not going to change. Others have talked about how wonderful their teachers are, but I think in reality, it’s me, my relative introversion, and a degree of insecurity that keeps me from learner more, quicker. In a group (especially) in the marketplace, I’m loathe to speak up, even in a group I won’t typically interrupt the extroverts to contribute. Their loss. My loss.

To recap, assuming I remember a fraction of the last week, I had four days of classes (since the curriculum was revamped for me) followed by a skip day for a cooking class (great fun!). Saturday I joined a school-organized tour: it was interesting, but we had expected an opportunity to return to shops we’d checked out earlier, then the schedule really didn’t offer the time. We ran three hours late and I returned exhausted.

Sunday (today) I’d pledged to be a good lad, catch up on my homework and basically chill. But some other students were keen on a market about 30km away. It too was interesting but it too ran several hours over time with complicated transportation and a lot of walking in the heat. Would have preferred to stay “home”, honestly. We had a very tasty meal, however, and I didn’t get sick from it…

Categories
Uncategorized

New Dawn

It’s a new dawn It’s a new day It’s a new life For me And I’m feeling good.

Michael Buble

What a difference a day makes… 24 little hours

Maria Grever (who?)

Yeah, so maybe “new life” is a stretch. My teachers and I put our plan into action. The result was a delight. Same coffee shop in the morning, but after some initial lessons and review, we visited a nearby basilica both to enjoy the layout of the church and to learn new words and phrases. The downside was the sun is pretty intense even at 10:00 and it was pretty tough on my un-sunblocked (“bloqueado solar“) skin. The afternoon was also excellent, we talked both hours on food-related topics, I related my chicken saltimbocca recipe, the grammar was almost perfect but to be fair I had to look up almost everything. I never encountered a verb “to dredge in flour” as a kid, for example. The homework for tomorrow is something similar, along with the responsibility to ask certain questions to my classmates using a newly-introduced tense. I’d learned this tense long ago so it’s an easy one, this is mostly review.

Categories
Uncategorized

Meltdown

Some of my classmates had mentioned personal meltdowns at the end of the first week. In fact this morning (after I wrote this, actually) one of my classmates admitted he’d had several, although I’m guessing they lacked the magnitude of mine. For me, it didn’t even take a week. After three days of classes, I was totally confused during the 4th, and sometimes 3rd hour of the day. It’s as if my brain was simply full – my teacher would ask me something I just learned (ostensibly), and I couldn’t remember what it was. I was near tears – twice. I’m smart. I know I’m smart. But I seem to be applying the same standards as I had as a teen, to a guy in his 60s. That’s doomed to fail.

There are a couple of approaches I can take:

  • Reduce my hours per day or days/week
  • Dumb down my lessons (few newer terms, more practice)
  • Introduce “distractions” – areas of interest – travel, tourism, food, cooking that keep it interesting without overly sacrificing the learning experience
  • Quit entirely (not an option)

Miracle?

I’d composed an email to the school Director (this may be a one-person shop with outsourced teachers, but in any case he’s the Jefe (boss)). I didn’t send it; I was having trouble owing up to my feelings (real or perceived) of failure, self-doubt. This morning, I decided to put my thoughts into visual form (“mind mapping”) mostly for my own clarity. Shortly before the beginning of breakfast I found the wherewithal to find him and ask to talk. He came up to the room, and I choked out what I’d been feeling and showed him the map. Perhaps not “the smartest thing I’ve ever done” but it was a pretty clever idea. Armed with a snapshot of the mind map, he met with the two teachers. Then in practically an instant (ok it was like a half hour) everything changed.

I had steeled myself into standing up to my perceived oppressors (exaggeration for effect…) – my evil teachers who forced me to take on “more than I could chew”. Instead, I worked out a new approach with the morning instructor, then again in the afternoon. Instead of finishing downtrodden, I was energized and excited for the next class. By coincidence(?) the afternoon Instructor came to the place I was having lunch, so we could actually chill (and eat) without actually being “on the clock” not that punctuality is particularly revered in Mexico.

So, everything’s changed. The class has gone from intriguing (beforehand) to soul-crushing, to being fascinating with unlimited upside. In less than a day. I’m impressed. Tomorrow in the morning, Teacher #1 and I will visit a local market and talk about local foods and ordering. In the afternoon I’ve completed my homework for Teacher #2, which is my recipe (in Spanish) for chicken saltimbocca. We talked about cooking methods along with some grammer – she’ll correct that and we’ll talk more about food.

Categories
Uncategorized

Eating Oaxaca

A number of people I respect have told me that Oaxaca is one of the best places to eat in the world, which is saying a lot for a relatively small town in the Mexican interior. I find taking photos of food pretentious, so you’ll not see much here, but I’d like to describe some of the things I’ve tried. I hope to experience some more exotic things when I’m not in class all day and exhausted at night.

  • Pollo en mole amarillo – chicken with yellow mole. Moles are the pride of Oaxaca, there are at least seven and everybody seems to have their favorites. The brown mole is perhaps the best known and has more than 30 ingredients including chocolate. Speaking of chocolate, I switched off the usual coffee when we we’ve been meeting in coffee shops for lessons in favor of chocolate libations. They’re incredible. I might be hooked.
  • Molletes – think Mexican pizza-bread. Had this twice: once for breakfast, once for lunch. Something resembling a “sub” roll (just half) topped with melted cheese, avocado and pico de gallo (a fresh salsa with cilantro, tomatoes and onions – approximately what we might call “salsa” in the US, but less wet).
  • Memelas – described earlier, these are tortilla-like (corn-based) but a bit thicker, with various toppings. The ones I tried had some kind of pork and veg mixture, fried potatoes, cheese and brown mole)
  • Chupulinas – fried grasshoppers. Crunchy, nutty, a bit salty. Take off the legs, they get stuck between your teeth.
  • Breakfasts are included with the home stay, and they haven’t disappointed. Start with fresh fruit – papaya one day, bananas. Molletes this morning, heuvos revueltos (scambled eggs) on tortillas another. A shared bowl of sweet and regular bread, and strong coffee. I’d like it earlier in the day, but certainly leave satisfied.
Categories
Uncategorized

Day 3: I can see clearer now

Yesterday (my first day of classes) was a killer. After the 2nd class I was physically drained. I could’t sleep but did “chill” for a couple of hours. I’d committed to an evening movie, but as the time arose I wasn’t sure I could even walk the 10 minutes, never mind a couple of hours of movie in a foreign language. I hung out for a few minutes and didn’t encounter anybody else doing. I decided to cut my losses, grab some dinner (beer and pizza) and go to bed. It was the correct decision.

I had had homework from both instructors; I’d finished the morning’s that evening, but did the afternoon’s work this morning. There’s more homework but at least I feel the wherewithal to complete it.

Here are some photos from the last couple of days wandering. I haven’t taken any useful photos of the plaza / courtyard of the home, both for privacy and it just doesn’t seem to lend itself to photos. Perhaps later.

Categories
Uncategorized

Day 1.

As I wrote yesterday, it was a little suspicious (call it “cognitive dissonance”) that the “homestay” shared an address with the school. Turns out this is hardly a “home stay” – when I did this in Paris for French, I was ensconced in an apartment with a couple and their kids, and traumatized for life the morning I came from my room unexpectly to find “the man of the house” doing a handstand — naked — in their living room. I expected the same here (the school contact said “you will stay with… at the school… I a sure you’ll enjoy the time with her and her family”. Not so much the naked-husband part, but the shared quarters.

Well, I have met my Temp Mom (“Sra Magdalena Giron Villalobos”) and was promptly escorted to my own apartment. Had I know this I could have been spared the angst of sharing a living space (at age 62) again. I’m pleased it is not so. Turns out that his property has probably 10 apartments, some support the language school, others are just AirBNB.

The apartment is basic but modern: a round table at which I am typing at the moment, a small faux leather couch, double bed. Only a fan for cooling, the good news there is we’re at 1515m (about 5000′) elevation, and while it’s likely to be toasty in the daytime, it does cool down at night. The bed is on the hard side, but I’ll get used to it. It’s $20 a day, including breakfast.

So: simple, clean, basic.

Took an evening walking. Breathtaking, not particularly due to scenery but elevation; it’ll take a while to get use to this. Slept OK with “Breaking out of Beginner Spanish” and another like book at my side. I’m embracing this! From the airport up until breakfast this morning I spoke no English and most of my Spanish was understood, and I understood most of what was heard.

Breakfast is included with the stay but I had no expectation about it. Tasty: quesadillas with Oaxacan cheese and a salsa and a mole). Coffee, bread and pastry. There I met my “classmates”: two from Quebec, one from Australia, three from Tacoma, WA, and one from Washington DC. Of course I’ve already forgotten their names but tomorrow’s another day. One of the Tacomans is named Scott. I’ll remember him, but he’s leaving tomorrow. The Australian and I (a woman – a bit older than me) will tour one of the markets this afternoon. Kind of her. Alas, she didn’t show. Waited for about 40 minutes. Either I got the time wrong, or she spaced it out. Silver lining – it’s unusual for me to linger (“relax”) period, so “chilling” to an ice coffee was kind of refreshing. I finished wandering, netting about 6 miles of walking in 80 degree heat at 5500′ elevation. If I can keep this up I’ll be in better shape when I get back to Tucson!

Class starts tomorrow. The lessons are one-on-one, and may take place here at the school or around town – coffee shops… wherever.

Categories
Uncategorized

The Plan

Kathy’s made it muy simple for me. Found the school. Made the flight arrangements. First to Houston, and hour and a half there, then on to Oaxaca. It’s only a few miles from the airport to my homestay (more on that later) – a $4.50 “collectivo” (shared taxi) and a half hour learning about the diverse bunch of guys sharing my ride.

So, what exactly am I doing? I’m signed up with a well-reviewed language school on Oaxaca, for 20 days. Four hours/day, 5 days/week. We’ll meet around town – the school, a coffee shop — “real life” situations. I’ll be in a homestay, a bit suspicious in that it’s at the same address of the school, but… it’ll work out. I’ve found my homestay hostess on Facebook, she’s a bit younger than me, lives with her husband and her mom. Loves to cook, enjoys students. Most will have been younger than me, I imagine.